Oil analysis - potential problems: coolant and high metal content. Thoughts?

[[H]ard|On]

What weight oil have you been using Illig?

Maybe it's all your fault!

[illig]

Originally Posted by d114

What are your driving habits? Are you lead footed? Are you pushing the car at all, and what is the general ambient temperature of when you drive the car?

Next time, perhaps save some oil so that you can send in a 'control' sample for baseline numbers.

I've only used pennzoil once. And that was enough for me. I'll use amsoil in the bike (clutch feel) and rotella, delo or whatever I can find in the cars, (yes I know it's a diesel oil) changed at 3k using wal-mart branded filters.

My driving habits are definitely harsh on the engine... I put about 6K on the car per year and 50% of that is short hops around the city in traffic (and this is a real city - Brooklyn, Manhattan, etc.) when the car barely warms up and the other 50% are regular highway trips (vacations, visiting the folks, etc.)

The car gets used infrequently b/c we commute to work via mass transit - so it can have several months where it only gets started for 10 min per week so it can be moved to the other side of the street for street cleaning.

As far as temperature - North East climate I guess. from 20*F in winter to 100*F in summer.

And i'm getting the 'base line' numbers from my dad as he actually works on Mobil 1 Will see how much the viscosity, etc. decreased over 8K miles.

The key thing is that i only put 8K on this oil - and Honda itself recommends 5K on regular dino oil in harsh conditions.

Originally Posted by [H]ard|On

The biggest reason you wont find shavings is because those a PPM - parts per million.

While elevated compared to the average it may mean something is going on but it's not like you're about to lose a motor any time soon.

Yeah, there's no shavings. The oil plug is magnetic and it was clean.

Originally Posted by [H]ard|On

What weight oil have you been using Illig?

Maybe it's all your fault!

5w-20 as per Honda. And yeah, it might be my fault per my driving habits above

I'll go get a test done in the next few weeks - should I go for a radiator pressure test? a cylinder compression test? which would be more indicative?

[[H]ard|On]

Compression test will let you know what your rings are doing. Rad pressure is more about the HG.

[d114]

I suspect the amount of cold starts and lack of use could do that to your oil readings.

Given your driving habits i suspect that the readings might be on the more normal side. I mean perhaps another member can chime in here, but when the engine is cold and any metals are not at their efficient operating temperature, the wear on the engine will be greater than an engine kept closer to its optimum operating temp. It's kind of like how you sometimes torch or freeze a part of a volkswagen engine to get it all together.

[Thermo1223]

Originally Posted by d114

I suspect the amount of cold starts and lack of use could do that to your oil readings.

Given your driving habits i suspect that the readings might be on the more normal side. I mean perhaps another member can chime in here, but when the engine is cold and any metals are not at their efficient operating temperature, the wear on the engine will be greater than an engine kept closer to its optimum operating temp. It's kind of like how you sometimes torch or freeze a part of a volkswagen engine to get it all together.

Very true, in fact this is exact reason some people change based on time not mileage. In your case every 6 months wouldn't be a bad idea. You could easily use conventional as well and wouldn't hurt a thing. If using Mobil 1 makes you feel better go for it.

Also how did you get the sample? They recommend running the engine to operating temp and draining the oil while it is still fairly warm. Also do not take it from the beginning or end of the drain, the middle is preferable.

You will get more iron from start-up wear with multiple cold starts especially driven as little as it is. I am surprised you don't have fuel in the oil in even a small amount but that could just be a testament to have effectively tight Honda tolerances are. Use the same oil & filter and sample again at 4k.

[[H]ard|On]

Generally speaking when coolant reaches "normal" temp oil is still well bellow <100C. If you have an oil temp gauge this is obvious.

You want oil to reach normal temp to boil all the moisture out (moisture occurs as a part of combustion) You don't want to go past 3-4k RPM while oil is cold, traditionally because it will reach max pressure there.. Between those two things and your driving habits maybe that's what is happening.

[grjr]

based on your driving habits stop using synthetic, switch to a good conventional oil and change the oil/filter more often (every 3,000 miles/ 6 months?). No need for synthetic if you aren't going to get the mileage out of it (unless I guess if it makes you feel better).

[RazorWind]

Originally Posted by grjr

based on your driving habits stop using synthetic, switch to a good conventional oil and change the oil/filter more often (every 3,000 miles/ 6 months?). No need for synthetic if you aren't going to get the mileage out of it (unless I guess if it makes you feel better).

If the oil you happen to need doesn't come in a non-synthetic variety, you're kinda stuck.

My Mazda3 needs 0W-20 oil, which I've only ever found in the Mobil 1 full synthetic brand.

[Thermo1223]

Originally Posted by RazorWind

If the oil you happen to need doesn't come in a non-synthetic variety, you're kinda stuck.

My Mazda3 needs 0W-20 oil, which I've only ever found in the Mobil 1 full synthetic brand.

You don't "need" 0w20, you could easily use 5w20 as at operating temp. they are the same oil in regards to viscosity. 0w20 is primarily for fuel efficiency.

[Tex Arcana]

Originally Posted by JoePits

metal as fuck \m/

[Tex Arcana]

Originally Posted by [H]ard|On

it's not like you're about to lose a motor any time soon.

It's more than 5 years old, it's going to blow up like a bomb. Kill it with fire.

[BonneMe]

Originally Posted by Thermo1223

You don't "need" 0w20, you could easily use 5w20 as at operating temp. they are the same oil in regards to viscosity. 0w20 is primarily for fuel efficiency.

The only difference between 0w20 and 5w20 is the cold start viscosity, not operating temp which is where it's easier to affect overall mileage..

[Thermo1223]

Originally Posted by BonneMe

The only difference between 0w20 and 5w20 is the cold start viscosity, not operating temp which is where it's easier to affect overall mileage..

0w20 by default is some form of synthetic...whereas 5w20 could not be. You just can't get that 0 number without blending to some point. So it could have a marginal effect on fuel economy especially in regards to cold starts, the 0w20 would flow a lot easier and present less drag until the engine was at temp then it is a moot point.

[BlazerLT]

To the OP, you have a small coolant leak from a head gasket. Get the head gasket fixed and replaced if you plan on driving this for several years.

[Syk0tiK]

Originally Posted by Thermo1223

It's all relative certain engines respond better to certain oil formulations.

The key is what provides the lowest wear vs. time. On a Subaru forum I got told my engine would grenade by using Mobil 1 AFE 0w30 mostly because Subaru had some bunk engines from the factory and people blamed it on Mobil 1 oil when they let go. In reality I think it had a lot to do with over revving, abuse, and possibly bad bottom ends from the factory. It was easy to blame it on the oil though. My car ran like a smooth scalded ape on Mobil 1 0w30 but sluggish on the 5w40 which a lot of people use and recommend.

I tried Syntec 5w30 after that because Mobil 1 AFE was on short supply when I needed it. It ran seemingly just as well.

Feel means a lot and when I had Amsoil in it for a short run it felt harsh and seemed to run worse but maybe the wear was low. I however didn't care because to me it just felt like shit.

Like I said it is all relative, choose what works but don't dismiss other oils because you haven't tried them but X amount of people said they are shit. That is how the Pennzoil rumors stay alive.

WTF? Engines don't run different based on the brand of oil used.

Oil weight... maybe, but you would NEVER feel a difference unless you possibly filled it with 90w differential oil.

Anything you "felt" was simply a placebo affect.