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Removing surface rust from metal parts using electrolysis
I've got a set of used lower control arms that I'm going to be installing on my car in a few days, but they are covered in surface rust. Rather than driving myself crazy trying to sand all the rust off, I'm going to try the electrolysis route using a battery charger and water/ washing soda to remove it.
My question is, the control arms have non removable rubber bushings. Will they be harmed during the process? If so, how can I protect them while still being able to remove the rust from all the surrounding metal? |
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#1
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I don't really know howmuch time or money you would have to put in to do something like that but why not just have them sandblasted? Are you sure the bushings are non removable? I doubt when they get so old the dealer expects you to buy a new control arm just because the bushings are bad.
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#2
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The only money I need to put in it is about $2 for the washing soda and a few hours of time for it to finish. I have all the rest of the materials.
As for the bushings, they are pressed in. The reason I bought new control arms in the first place was because I tried to remove the bushings and mangled the hell out of them. Also the lower balljoint is riveted onto it. I want to make sure I don't have to remove that too so the rubber boot won't be damaged. For reference, the car is a 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue. It's a W-body and shares pretty much all of the same parts with the Pontiac Grand Prix, Buick Regal, Chevrolet Monte Carlo and Chevy Impala. |
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#3
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Mule Train
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They should be fine. The washing soda is not excessively alkaline, and electricity should not effect the non-conductive material used in the bushings.
Haven't used the electrolytic derusting method myself. But have been told it works fairly well if implemented properly. Here are a couple pages I have saved on the subject which might be useful. http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/ru..._derusting.htm http://www.icehouse.net/overland/derusting.html
__________________
ASE Master Engine Machinist ~ Tool & Die Machinist (ret) ~ Metalsmith ~ Old Skool Motorhead 1988 Mustang (original owner) - 1980 Jeep CJ7 (Iron Duke!) - 1969 GTO (Pontiac Power!) |
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#4
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Thanks for the info Susquehannock.
I might reconsider trying this though. It seems like the anode needs to be a lot larger than I thought since the control arm is pretty large. I might just try to use the piece of crap Harbor Freight sandblaster that's been sitting somewhere in my garage for years. What do you think would give me better results? |
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#5
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Mule Train
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Glad I could help.
![]() My preference would be glass-beading actually. Less surface deformation than with sand. Around here I get a 25-lb bag for about $18. Easy to sift & reuse. Although the effectiveness drops as the glass beads break apart. But that is why there is less deformation.
__________________
ASE Master Engine Machinist ~ Tool & Die Machinist (ret) ~ Metalsmith ~ Old Skool Motorhead 1988 Mustang (original owner) - 1980 Jeep CJ7 (Iron Duke!) - 1969 GTO (Pontiac Power!) |
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#6
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Has anyone here used the electrolysis route? If so are there any tips or suggestions you can give me?
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#7
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sabercat tamer
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I would NOT reccomend using this method for any part that needs to handle any serious stress, which a control arm obviously does. the metal becomes brittle and will eventually crack and fail, which is something you obviously do not want to happen. don't even think about it.
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#8
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shit the needle broke off in my ass cheek
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why would electrolysis make the metal brittle? |
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#9
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anyone else?
And electrolysis shouldn't make the metal brittle. Maybe the anode, but I'm not bolting that to the underside of my car. If it works, it's just going to remove 1-2 mm of iron oxide. How the hell will that compromise the integrity? Last edited by BandontheRun84; 06-10-2007 at 04:40 AM.. |
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#10
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__________________
Be excellent to each other! |
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#11
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